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1. Is
there a difference between convenience store cigars
and cigar shop cigars?
There is a huge
difference between the cheap prepackaged cigars
and those available at quality smoke shops. Most
of the mass-produced cigars include non-tobacco
ingredients such as paper, saltpeter (for even
burning) and PG or Glycerin (to prevent them from
drying out). Quality cigars contain only tobacco
and are normally handmade. Most quality cigars
contain top-of-the-line leaves, and are made with
long-filler, meaning the leaves run from one end
of the cigar to the other. These handmade cigars
offer excellent craftsmanship, flavor and enjoyment.
The higher prices are due to the costs involved
in producing such a cigar, from daily tending
of the plants, to leaf selection and fermentation,
through aging, rolling, boxing, distributing and
advertising, these cigars go through rigorous
quality control and many steps before they reach
our shelves and your hands.
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2. How
do I pick a good cigar?
When you visit
your local tobacconist, you might be intimidated
by the quantity of cigars there are to sample.
If you are a new smoker, you should start off
with mild to medium bodied cigars as you will
enjoy them much more than if you start with something
too strong.
Inspect your chosen
cigars wrapper for discolorations and imperfections.
Gently squeeze the body of the cigar. You want
to feel a firm yielding of the cigar without it
being too soft. Too much moisture in a cigar will
cause it to burn unevenly and smoke excessively.
Too dry of a cigar will cause it to be harsh-flavored
and burn hotly. As you feel and smoke different
cigars, you will get a feel for what you like.
Cigars rolled
in different countries will all have variations
in aroma, flavor, strength and power. It is up
to the individual smoker to decide what brands
and qualities he/she favors in a cigar. That's
the fun of cigar smoking and collecting!
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3. What
are cigars comprised of?
Fine
cigars are composed of three types of tobacco;
the Wrapper which is the outside leaf you see
and influences flavor by up to 60%, the Binder
which holds the filler together, and the Filler
which is generally a blend of fine tobaccos from
one or more strains or countries combined together
for flavor.
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4. What
are the different types of tobacco used in a cigar?
It is important
to know that are two different types of seed variety,
corojo and criollo, each of which
produces very different plants. The corojo
plant, named after El Corojo Vega, the famous
plantation where its seed was developed, is designed
to produce the finest wrapper leaves. The criollo
plant is the perfect strain of the only true Cuban
tobacco seed, producing four of the five tobacco
leaves which are blended to create the variety
of flavors found in Havana cigars.
Tobacco plant
leaves have different uses depending on how high
or low they
are on the stalk. The leaves on the plant are
grouped into seven levels. From top to bottom
these are: coronas, semi-coronas,
centro gordo, centro fino, centro
ligero, uno y medio and libra de
pie. The highest quality leaves are found
in the middle, or centro, of the plant
and are used as wrappers. The upper or corona
leaves are used as fillers, and the lower leaves
as binders.
Wrapper leaves
are also classified by color, in seven shades.
These are: double claro (light green),
claro (light tan), colorado claro
(light to mid-brown), colorado (reddish-brown),
colorado maduro (medium brown), maduro
(dark brown) and oscuro (dark or black).
Three different
types of leaf are used for the filler. Dark, strongly
flavored, slow-burning ligero leaves harvested
from the top of the plant and aged for two years,
are placed in the middle of the filler. Lighter-colored
and milder seco leaves from the middle
of the plant and aged up to 18 months, surround
the ligero leaves. Then volado leaves
with little flavor from the lower part of the
plant, aged up to about 9 months, are wrapped
around the other leaves because of their excellent
burning qualities. The varying proportions of
these three leaves is what gives each cigar label
its unique and distinctive flavors.
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5. How long are cigars
aged before they are sold?
Fermentation of
tobacco takes place in two stages. First, the
leaves are heaped in piles about 3 feet high under
jute burlap coverings, and left to ferment for
up to three months in temperatures no higher than
92°F. Then the piles are broken up and graded
for use as either wrapper, filler or binder, and
sorted for size, color and quality.
The flattened
leaves are then returned to the fermenting house,
stacked in piles up to 6 feet high, tightly packed
and stored in darkened rooms in temperatures no
higher than 110°F. In this state they are
known as burros. This second fermentation
allows impurities of moisture, sap, nicotine and
ammonia to be released from the leaves. They are
kept as long as six months in the case of the
darkest maduro wrappers to get those rich shades
of brown and black.
The leaves are
then resorted, wrapped in palm leaves in square
bales called tercios, and sent to the warehouses
where they slowly mature - sometimes as long as
two years, depending on the brand.
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6. What is a cigar
beetle and how bad are they?
Have you ever
seen a weevil? Cigar beetles look just like them.
Tiny, dark brown cigar eating machines. When you
get them, you'll know you have them by the holes
they leave in your cigars. They will hatch in
and eat their way out of a cigar before you even
know you have one. And where there's one, there
will be more. Luckily they only live about a month,
but they can leave a lot of eggs in that time,
which will repeat the cycle. Cigar beetles are
much more prevalent in Cuban cigars than in cigars
from the Dominican Republic, Nicaragua or Honduras.
Beetles can easily hatch when the temperature
climbs up to about 80°F and is sustained for
even a few days.
The key to controlling an infestation is isolation.
If you must attempt to save those cigars, your
best recourse is to put them in a vapor-locked
bag and then in the freezer. Note that the live
bugs and pupae will die within 24-48 hours of
freezing, but to kill the eggs would require months
at those temperatures.
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7. What is the difference
between mold and plume?
Mold can grow
on cigars like it can on anything that is too
moist. On a cigar, it is a greenish-grayish color
that cannot be scraped off with your nail. Plume,
or bloom, on the other hand, is a crystalline
grayish white and looks like specks on a cigar.
If you rub them or scrape them with your nail
- they disappear. Plume is the natural byproduct
of an aged cigar. Some of the cigars oils are
secreted and create those lovely crystals - the
sign of a very nicely kept cigar.
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8. How do I cut my
cigar?
Handmade premium
cigars must obviously be cut before they are
smoked. When cutting your cigars, the most important
thing to have is a sharp cutting blade. A dull
blade will do nothing more than ruin your cigars.
Many people ask if
they should keep the plastic wrapper on the cigar
when cutting. It really doesn't make a difference,
but I have found that keeping it on eliminates the
residue left on your cutter, which in time could
increase its life.
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cigar should be held at eye level so you can
be sure you are cutting a straight line. I
was taught to cut a cigar at its shoulder,
in the middle of the cap, before the curve
ends. If you cut a cigar too low, you risk
it unraveling from the top while you smoke
it, and getting bits of tobacco in your mouth.
Some people like a bigger smoking cut, some
like a smaller one, it's individual preference. |
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Make sure when you
start to cut your cigar that you do so with constant
pressure in a quick manner. This will ensure that
equal pressure is placed on all sides of the cigar,
eliminating the risk of crushing the cigar while
cutting. |
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9. What should I use
to cut my cigar?
There are several
different items you can use that achieve the same
basic purpose, in various ways:
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Cutter
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Scissors
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Punch
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Wedge
Cutter
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Poker
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Cutters:
Cutters are a guillotine style device used to
slice the cap off of the cigar. They are available
in single, double, and even triple blade, single
and double blades being the most common. Double
blade cutters are usually more expensive than
their single blade counterparts, but they will
last far longer, as they are self-sharpening.
Most single blade cutters are disposable, and
should be thrown away once they have stopped making
clean, sharp cuts.
Scissors:
Cigar scissors resemble double blade cutters in
performance, but are not self-sharpening. They
are known to crush or tear the head off the cigar
if they are not kept at peak sharpness.
Punch: A
punch cuts a small circle into the cap. Some have
an ejection spring to push out the cut tobacco.
The punch does not work well on thin cigars. It
works especially well on cigars of 54 ring gauge
or more. A guillotine cutter can not usually accommodate
these wide bodied cigars. The punch hole also
serves to relieve you from having to put the whole
cigar in between your lips, which can be uncomfortable
on the jaw. Rather, you can "sip" the
smoke through the punch opening.
Wedge Cutter:
These cutters notch a "V" down the
center of the cap, about an 1/8-1/4" deep.
Typically, they work very well on thin (less than
40 ring size) and tapered (torpedo shaped) cigars.
They do not give a clean cut on wider gauge caps.
Poker:
Pokers are a great item to have when one of your
favored cigars is hard to draw on. Occasionally,
a bit of tobacco bunches up at the heart of a
cigar and choices are few for getting a proper
draw or burn. That's when you need a poker. You
insert the pin-like rod through the head of the
cigar as straight as you possibly can, to try
and break up the clog. You should also use the
poker at the foot of a cigar as well, and carefully
penetrate in a straight line to ease the clog
from the bottom.
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More
to come soon!
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